(41 comments, 338 posts)
He was born in Canada, but currently lives in Boulder, CO up in Boulder Heights.
Home page: http://david.kabal.org
Yahoo Messenger: firstname.lastname@example.org
Posts by Dave
Canon PIXMA printers are equipped with three types of connections: USB, WiFi and Ethernet (wired). I try and keep EVERYTHING I can off my WiFi, so I wanted to make the wired Ethernet connection work.
From the factory, the wired Ethernet connection is disabled (stupid) and doesn’t automatically enable itself until you do the following:
- Turn printer on. Wait for it to do its stuff and be on (about 30 seconds)
- Hold down the paper feed button until the power light blinks EXACTLY 11 times. It’ll respond by blinking afterwards.
- Turn printer off. Wait for it to shutdown gracefully
- Turn it on again, wired LAN should be active.
To verify, hold down feed button for exactly 6 blinks. It’ll print out a settings page, wired should be marked as “active”.
Apparently this may also be possible from deep within the settings once WiFi is active, but really? Also, it appears impossible to have both WiFi and wired active at the same time (no big loss, but WHY?)
I decided to do some research on the *right* way to set up wireless networks when you have multiple standards, multiple access points, multiple bands and a (fairly) large area to cover. There doesn’t seem to be one right answer, but here’s my old setup and new setup. This all seems to track nicely, WPA2 identical password and same SSID for all variants.
Old setup (limited in main building by old wiring limiting maximum backhaul to 100 Mbit/s Ethernet)
- Linksys (hacked for high power) WAP54g (single band) in main building – kabal-wireless (802.11g, 2.4GHz only)
- Apple Airport Express in main building – kabal-wireless-n (802.11n, simultaneous 2.4GHz & 5 GHz) running in dumb mode
- NetGear WNR2000v1 N300 in garage office – kabal-wireless-n (802.11n, simultaneous 2.4GHz & 5 GHz) probably running as a router
New setup (Gigabit Ethernet wired backhaul for everything)
- Zyxel NWA1123-AC – kabal-wireless in main building living room (simultaneous 802.11a/b/g/n/ac, 2.4GHz and 5 GHz)
- 20/40 MHz channel 6 2.4 GHz, Auto channel assignment 5 GHz 20/40/80 MHz
- Zyxel NWA1123-NI – kabal-wireless in main building bedroom (simultaneous 802.11a/b/g/n, 2.4GHz and 5 GHz)
- 20/40 MHz channel 1 2.4 GHz, Auto channel assignment 5 GHz 20/40 MHz
- Zyxel NWA1123-NI – kabal-wireless in garage office (simultaneous 802.11a/b/g/n, 2.4GHz and 5 GHz)
- 20/40 MHz channel 11 2.4 GHz, Auto channel assignment 5 GHz 20/40 MHz
So with the new setup, there’s 1 SSID for everything, and one password using WPA2 authentication. 2.4 GHz channels are set to the only nonoverlapping channels (1,6,11). 5 GHz channels are auto-assigned (and non-overlapping). For the most part clients seem to deal with roaming well, unlatching and latching onto access points (relatively) seamlessly.
Notes (the good, the bad and the ugly)
- Throughput on 802.11ac is close to 1 Gbit/s (whoah).
- This setup is somewhat at the mercy of crappy clients (802.11b) pulling down the throughput of the access point THEY are connected to. Fortunately, I don’t think I have many left.
- All units are PoE capable, and a $15 injector does the trick. Coupled with some awfully thin Ethernet cable, this can be very unobtrusive.
- Some folks have posited that having separate SSID for a,b,n,ac and 2.4 GHz and 5 GHz is a good thing. Most do not. I think it depends on the quality of your hardware. For example, you’ll often see people with separately named -5 networks.
- Many folks name adjacent networks differently. This is annoying. Just thought I’d put that out there.
- Don’t use routers as access points. Even in dumb mode bad stuff can happen.
- Eventually, I may move the units to 802.11ac APs, but wow, those NWA1123-NIs sure are cheap.
- There aren’t a lot of players in the high end access point market: Ubiquiti, Cisco, Engenius, and to a lesser extent, Netgear, Zyxel, etc.
- Of course, building a great wireless network in front of a crap router doesn’t help anybody. I use a custom-built pfSense router.
- Comcast letting anyone use their neighbor’s bandwidth (default xfinity network) is kind of insidious. It makes me feel dirty, like I’m stealing their internet access.
Photo by Kevin Moloney, New York Times
This is documented here, so that others may learn from my mistakes. I use wview software running on a Raspberry Pi (RPi). My setup is not the cheapest, but over multiple iterations I have tuned the components to reach the current setup. The total materials in my setup (not including temporary parts and mounting which will vary, will run ~$550 (today).
These are the components of my weather station setup at home, and how to put these components together to build a weather station that uploads data to CWOP, WeatherForYou and Weather Underground, among other places:
- Raspberry Pi – $35 – Newark
- Power supply for Raspberry Pi – $2.45 – eBay
- Case for Raspberry Pi – $5.99 – eBay
- 8GB SDHC Class 10 Transcend flash – $8.63 – Amazon
- Davis Wireless Vantage Pro 2 – $387.63 – Provantage
- Davis Weatherlink for Vantage Pro USB – $114.95 – Provantage [IMHO a ripoff]
- Instructions – google “wview raspberry pi” should get you to a well-written raspberry pi wview setup doc.
You’ll also need a pole, mounting hardware or tripod depending on where you want to mount the weather station.
You’ll need an HDMI-equipped monitor or TV to setup the RPi, as well as a USB keyboard with extra USB mouse port (chained) as the RPi only has two USBs. The RPi will need to be hooked up via Ethernet to the internet unless you want to buy one of the wireless adapters too. You’ll need to get an ID from CWOP if you want to publish your data to NOAA, as well as one from WeatherForYou and Weather Underground if you want to publish there too. After you’ve mounted the weather station and sent some data, you’ll need to submit photos of the installation to CWOP. (more…)
Figured I’d write this one out, because I couldn’t find this documented anywhere else. You do NOT need to open a connection FIRST to your local machine, and THEN to Amazon, as I’d been doing:
dkabal-macbookpro:~ dkabal$ ssh -i ~/[pem file location].pem ec2-user@[hostname]
You can open a connection directly to the remote server:
- Copy the
.pemfile to the
~/.ssh/directory. Make sure permissions are right:
chmod 700 ~/.ssh/[pem file name].pem
- Then add the following lines to your
HOST [hostname, * works if you use the same .pem file for multiple hosts]
IdentityFile "~/.ssh/[pem file name].pem"
Stolen unabashedly from here.
So a friend suggested I document my approach to going to a fully legal, download/streaming solution for all my TV and movie watching.
A little background: I have recently moved from a dual internet connection (CenturyLink 7 Mbit/s ADSL2+, Comcast 2 Mbit/s cable modem, bonded with a RV082 router) to a single 40 Mbit/s VDSL2 connection, because of some compelling pricing arguments (the cable price jumped from $15/month to $40/month). With this, I feel compelled to use this pipe for TV viewing, rather than pay separately for TV and internet. So the total cost of the solution or solutions must be less than the cost of internet and TV.
So here’s the shows my wife and I watch:
The Walking Dead, Dexter, Weeds, The Mentalist, Lie to Me, The Big Bang Theory, Eureka, Breaking Bad, True Blood, The Daily Show, House, The Big C, Community, Parks & Recreation, The Closer, Rizzoli & Isles, Nurse Jackie, Entourage, Curb Your Enthusiasm
Here’s the solutions I’m looking at:
Amazon, Netflix, Hulu Plus, Vudu, AppleTV, GoogleTV
From the start, it’s clear I have an uphill battle ahead of me. The problem is that the majority of these shows, especially the ones I really like are on HBO and SHOWTIME, networks who have notoriously stayed off the internet.
This post will fill out as I evaluate my options…
So there are many solutions out there discussing solutions to the error in PHP 5.3 while connecting using the built-in mysql library to a MySQL server:
mysqlnd cannot connect to mysql 4.1+ using the old insecure authentication. please use an administration tool to reset your password with the command set password = password('your_existing_password').
Unfortunately, none of these solutions seem to work on a remote MySQL server. I have WebFaction running my MySQL server, so it’s impossible to configure the old_passwords in a my.conf file. What you have to do instead is:
SET SESSION old_passwords=0; SET PASSWORD=PASSWORD('existing password');
This should reset the password to the 41 byte hash compatible with mysqlnd in PHP 5.3.